From the Ski for Light Bulletin - Fall 2009
By Brook Yates
On April 10th, 2009 I boarded a plane in Denver, Colorado for Bangor, Maine to set out on a 69 day journey to pedal bike across the northern part of our great nation. I decided on this plan in December and ignored all of the naysayers, warning me, "It will be too cold...it is dangerous to do it alone, especially for a woman...it is too many miles per day...wont' you be lonely?" etc. I cannot say the naysayers were all wrong, but I vouch that the obstacles I faced did not outweigh the hundreds of ways this journey positively impacted my life and those I came into contact with along the way. To sum up such a journey in a short summary will somehow always fall short. The trip began with frigid mornings, beautiful views of the east coast shoreline, and the rolling hills in Vermont and New Hampshire. I was also starting to feel the strenuous toll of biking through serious injuries in my Achilles tendon and knee. I suppose I deserved it, considering I did not train for this trip and on my first day out I tackled 74 miles pulling about 40 pounds of gear. I also continuously ran into human being after human being who demonstrated enormous generosity by welcoming me into their homes, randomly buying me meals and giving me hitch hike rides in times of desperation. I thought to myself, "Wow! The east coast sure does know hospitality!" I thought my lucky streak of generosity would eventually fade but I proudly report that each day across the entire nation I met someone who in some small way did something for me to support my efforts.
I made my way through the plains of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois hoping for the weather to warm but to no avail. I missed the gorgeous scenery, mountains and rivers but found my groove pedaling through the flat corn fields. What would have been mundane days pedaling on the roads turned into extraordinary days as I met interesting people who expanded my horizons in small ways. It was enduring the days of biking on flat and uneventful stretches that allowed me to fully appreciate the rolling hills and amazing scenery throughout my journey.
Of course I learned something new nearly every day including the existence of significant hills in Iowa. I skirted the Mississippi River and found my way into "The Land of 10,000 Lakes." Declaring one state friendlier than another state may be analogous to a parent telling one child they love them more than another child. However, I will go out on a limb as I reflect back over my experience and admit that I had more experiences in Minnesota with overtly genuinely nice and helpful individuals. Keep in mind the small margin of the previous statement as I came across mainly friendly people all along the way. I reached the Mississippi headwaters and biked west towards North Dakota.
One of the greatest advantages of adventuring solo is the liberty to make decisions at any point without consulting anyone. Once I reached the border of North Dakota I realized I had fallen behind schedule and also decided not to fight the headwinds of the plains. I boxed up Charlie and Bob (my bike and trailer) and boarded my first American train and enjoyed speeding across the plains of North Dakota. With only 3 states remaining I began my way across Montana. Although eastern Montana's landscape is similar to North Dakota, my excitement grew as I neared the western side of the state.
My two friends, Nicole and Gretchen, joined me for a one-week leg of my journey. They dropped their car off at Glacier National Park and hitchhiked with their bikes and trailers 350 miles east to meet me in central Montana. Having company was bittersweet for a variety of reasons and the jury is still out on whether I enjoy riding solo or with company. The three of us worked through arguments, laughter, lots of cooking, and major headwinds to arrive in the most magical place on my entire trip - Glacier National Park. I hope to take time to further explore this precious jewel someday, but I am grateful for our two days in this majestic place.
The girls reunited with their car and I continued heading west to conquer Idaho and Washington. From the beginning of Glacier to the Pacific Ocean, I had endless days of indescribable views with countless streams, valleys and mountains. I reached the edge of the Cascade Mountains in Washington, and another good friend Hilary joined me for the last six days of my journey to ride with me to the Pacific Ocean.
The day I touched the Pacific Ocean brought both a sense of accomplishment and devastating news. On one hand, I was ending one of the most unforgettable adventures I have ever experienced; however on the other, I had received news that my mother had a tumor in her brain. When my flight from Seattle to Denver landed, I received a phone call from my father with results from my mother's brain surgery biopsy (her procedure began as my flight took off from Seattle). I was grateful my best friend Andrea picked me up from the airport as I collapsed into her arms and muttered through the tears the results of the biopsy, "it is cancerous." I soon realized that the timing of all of these occurrences could not have been better: I was afforded sixty-nine days to spend making this epic personal journey to prepare myself for the next year that would be dedicated to spending as much time with my mother as possible.
This story leaves out many of the struggles I experienced, but I will not forget the days that the wind took every bit of spirit inside of me leaving me in tears on the side of the road, nearly peeing my pants trembling with fear of the cracks of lighting splitting above me and no sign of refuge in sight, staring up at countless intimidating hills, the serious and significant pain in my Achilles tendon and knee, my numb hands and feet on countless frigid mornings when only insane cyclists would dare ride, having to dig deep inside on the days when I did not want to jump on the saddle, hoping and praying that each passing car, RV, and 18 wheeler had a focused driver at the wheel and would not accidentally swerve 1 foot to the right, getting honked or yelled at by angry drivers or they days when the universe just did not seem on my side. With all of this being said, if someone handed me a gift of sixty-nine days and money enough for the trip I would eagerly hop back on the saddle and bike back across the country.
Short stories of random generosity: The Apple: I wanted to purchase a piece of fruit at a convenience store (only store in about 20 miles). The clerk told me they had no fruit and then she said, "Hold on a minute!" She ran into the back and grabbed an apple from her lunch box and would not allow me to leave without accepting her apple.
The Lunch: While biking on the Erie Canal I stopped into an adorable tea house café to get out of the relentless cold and wind. Once I finished my yummy meal I went to pay for the meal and my server told me a local gentleman had already paid for my meal. I never even talked to him!
The Cheerleader Farmers: I had been climbing up a never-ending hill for nearly 45 minutes and I spotted a house that sat near the top. An elderly couple came out of their garage and began cheering me on. "You can do it, you are almost there!" In my exhaustion I mustered a wave in gratitude and the tears came pouring down my face.
The Tour Guide: I met a gentleman at a convenience store and after learning about my route he met me at my destination campsite to ensure I arrived safely. He felt sad my route avoided a State Park so he offered to drive me to the Park and he gave me a tour.
The Sprinkler: One hot day I got off my bike and stood on someone's sidewalk allowing the sprinkler to whisk the heat away from my body. An elderly woman came out of her house and said, "Are you OK?" Once she realized the logic to my insanity she went into the house and came back out with two freshly baked cookies bundled in a paper towel.
The pastor and family: I arrived to a small town in upstate New York completely drenched and nearly hypothermic with no place to stay. I walked into a church and after sharing my story with the pastor he invited me into his home with his family and provided me a warm shower, a big meal and wonderful company.
To list all of the people who supported me along the trip would include hundreds of people but I want to recognize the SFL community members who provided assistance in some capacity. I do so with reservation in fear of accidently forgetting some names so please excuse me if I make a mistake. A big thanks to Glenn Beachy, Marsha and John Soucheray, Nancy McKinney and Rich Milstead, Brenda Seeger and family, Doug and Lynda Boose, Roger Young, Betty Thompson, Wendy David and Larry Showalter, John Klemaseski, David Fisk and Jennifer Davey
Fun Facts Total miles biked: 3,400 Total miles traveled: 4,300 Average miles biked per day: 55 Variety of vessels of transportation: Motorcycle, bicycle, commercial airplane, private airplane, pontoon boat, river raft, horse, 3 wheeled off road vehicle, ferry, bed of a truck, SUV's and train. States I traveled through: Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, Minnesota, North Dakota, Montana, Idaho and Washington. Lodging: 11 hotel/hostels, 28 couchsurfer hosts (www.couchsurfing.com), 17 nights of camping, 4 SFL hosts, and 10 random hosts (usually these have entertaining stories to go along with them) Sleeping surfaces: 41 beds, 14 nights on my camping pad, 13 couches, 1 RV, 3 blow up mattresses.
If you want the full story from day one to the final day please visit, www.brooksbiketrip.blogspot.com