Brian's Excellent Nordic Adventure at Snow Mountain Ranch

Brian here. It was a moderately cold morning in the Washington, D.C. area when I learned about the difficult decision to cancel the 47th International SFL week at Snow Mountain Ranch (SMR). I immediately reached out to Don Rosenberry to make sure he would still be my partner in crime and would ski with me if I came out to SMR as scheduled. We had arranged a similar trip the year before-- until COVID undid our plans--and I certainly didn't want history repeating itself. So, I packed my bags and headed off to SMR to make some great memories and to ski some awesome trails. What I did not anticipate was being paired with two, fantastic guides who both knew the entire SMR trail network. We had a rollercoaster week of enjoyment from skiing easy trails to doing some backcountry skiing, and even a final exam that tested my fearlessness, confidence, and technical skills. My adventure began with a disturbing turn at the end of a morning flight to Denver: My cross-country skis did not arrive at their appointed carousel. Luckily, they were found after spending an anxious hour waiting for them to come out of the baggage area. I would have had to invent a new way to Nordic ski without my awesome new skin skis that I was oh so eager to put to good use. After the Home James shuttle wound its way around the switchbacks over Berthoud Pass, and then through Winter Park and Fraser, the driver delivered me to Aspenbrook Lodge, my home for the week. Don here: Brian and I had planned to ski together at SMR just prior to the 2021 SFL event. Although we were still hoping to ski, even with the cancellation of the event, COVID got worse yet, and Brian ended up cancelling his trip. Willing to try again this year, Brian arranged to arrive a few days before the start of the 2022 SFL event at Snow Mountain Ranch. With both of us vaccinated and boosted, I figured that masks indoors and cold, thin air outdoors would keep COVID at bay. Given that Brian's a pretty young guy and I'm, well, getting a bit long in the tooth, I had the perfect excuse to ski more often and longer each time so I'd be in tip top shape for his arrival. Therefore, I also was greatly disappointed to hear the news about the second cancellation of the SFL International event. I completely understood, and agreed with that tough decision, but darn that COVID! I sadly undid my vacation plans, just as had so many others who had been looking forward to SFL week, and then I happily remade them after receiving Brian's email saying the trip was still on. Back to you, Brian.

Prior to my journey to SMR, I had heard about the poor early season snow conditions. I had no idea what adventures my guides had planned, nor how well I would respond during my first time skiing this winter. I arrived to a couple feet of snow on the ground and not one, but two, guides! In addition to Don, Tim Feldman was also available to ski with me during the week.

Don here again: Tim really saved the day. During the short time between the SFL cancellation and Brian's email, I had agreed to take on some work-related obligations during what would have been the event week. After receiving Brian's email, I was able to walk back some of those obligations, but not all. Thanks to Tim's flexible schedule, the two of us were able to keep Brian out on the snow every day during his trip. During one of those days, the three of us ended up being able to ski all together, which was great. Back to Brian.

My ski adventures started early each day with temperatures usually well below zero as I walked to Schlessman Commons for breakfast. The minus 20 morning was particularly bracing. Each day warmed above zero, though, and near the end of my trip, we had a couple days with highs in the mid-20s. Don took me out the first two days, both times heading up Tabernash to warm up before venturing out into the various zones of the ranch. I had to get comfortable skiing again, as this was my first and only time this winter that I'd gotten out on the snow. Happily, it didn't take long. Then Don and I skied up the valley on Keenan, which led to some blue-black terrain. We gradually ventured more broadly yet, skiing Lynch, Cranmer, Mill Gulch, Upper and Lower Young, Eagle Valley, and Heckman, with some pretty fast speeds at times on those trails, all rated black.

Don again: On our first day, I took Brian on trails that I knew would be familiar to him. We skied Pole Creek (an SFL favorite), Milligan, Donner Pass--all trails with relatively small hills, but with some good turns that allowed me to get back into my guiding groove. It was near the top of the hill on Gaskill, way up above the reservoir, when Brian and I stopped for a photo op. I asked Brian to back up a bit so I could get the trail in the foreground with the continental divide in the background and with Brian as the center of attraction. I was paying so much attention to composition that I did not notice Brian's precarious position. One more step backwards and he would have been on the ride of his life, careening backwards through deep snow down a steep hill that ended at the frozen reservoir. Bad guide! Once I realized my mistake, I urged him to step forward. It's a good thing Brian can't see that incriminating photo!

It soon became clear that Brian was up for bigger challenges. One of my mottos is "fast is fun." I wanted to share that philosophy with Brian and to show him what substantial speed feels like. To make fast fun, I needed a hill with laser-straight tracks and a gradual transition to level ground at the bottom. I knew just the trail. The north end of Gaskill is moderately steep, nice and wide, with two sets of parallel tracks that are usually arrow straight. The only danger was the crossing trail at the bottom of the hill. I figured we could practice the sit command if another skier entered the picture. Furthermore, with fairly fresh packed powder, the landing wouldn't be too bad if Brian went into rapid deceleration mode. I told Brian to head down the tracks and do a half snowplow if he wanted to reduce his speed, a full snowplow as a last resort. We started downhill, speed quickly increasing, the wind sharply at our faces. Brian still had both skis in the grooves; impressive! I was watching the bottom of the hill - still wide open. Clean livin'! Just as I was thinking about telling Brian that we'd soon be reaching the bottom, Brian started to step out to do a half snowplow. It's amazing how quickly things happen when speed is involved. In about a half second, Brian went from speeding downhill perfectly in control to, WHAM!, speeding downhill on his face. Uffda, that was abrupt! Uffda, that had to hurt! Thanks to Brian's cat reflexes, he got his arms out in front to soften the blow. He slid to a stop, collected his wits, and all was fine. Still, it was a big fall. I was worried that it would set back his confidence. Amazingly, nope! Your turn, Brian.

Half way through the week, I got very comfortable skiing and was able to navigate more technical trails. I was even able to ski fast Wilson without stopping!

Don again: This was one of my proudest moments as a guide. Fast Wilson is well named. It's another fast, fun downhill, but it's not quite straight. There's a fairly sharp curve at the top that's not a problem because it's at the top, but just as the curve straightens the hill steepens and you're off and running. Near the bottom, there's a slight curve to the left that is no big deal when you can see it coming. But when you can't, well, that's what the guide's for. And then there's a substantial transition from down to up that could send Brian sprawling forward if I didn't tell him about it at just the right time. Oh, the pressure. Why do I do these things? Brian would be flying when he arrived at that turn and my timing would have to be exacting. This time, though, I had him pull his right ski out of the track, let it run straight and then push the tail out just a bit just before the turn. It worked like a charm, or maybe Brian just lives a charmed life. Either way, he perfectly negotiated the turn with a lot of speed, I remembered to tell him about the rise at the bottom of the hill, and we laughed and whooped as we snowplow-turned to a stop at the end of the trail. That earlier, traumatic face plant was now a distant memory. Each day, we skied an average of 20 to 30K. Brian was like the Eveready bunny. By the end of the week, I think we had skied almost all the trails that were groomed at SMR. Back atcha, Brian.

Waking up to each, chilly morning oddly encouraged me that it was going to be a perfect day of skiing with blue sky and little to no clouds in sight. As those days flew by, I'd imagine skiing through a forest of fresh groomed snow with snowcapped trees, finding moose or coyote tracks to ski over, or enjoying the sound of my poles hitting the snow as I'd make each stride, gliding through the terrain. I'd imagine double poling and flying through snowy, dense mountains and meadows, while putting my faith in my guides, who would make sure I made the right turns and would not run into any obstacles or crash. Little did I know, both my guides Tim and Don were preparing me for graduation day, which was my second to last day at SMR. I had no clue what this meant, and when I asked, Tim said I had to go down a trail called Old Lynch. Not till I accepted this challenge did I learn that this was the steepest and hardest black diamond course at the center. Navigating s-curves, switchbacks, and steep downhill sections.

Don again: Old Lynch is my favorite trail at SMR, hands down. If Brian could ski Old Lynch, he could ski anything at any Nordic center. That is a huge confidence builder, knowing that whatever is out there, you're up to the challenge, provided your guide is. After skiing with Brian all week, I knew he could do it, but Brian didn't know that; Hence, the challenge, and the anticipation. Old Lynch starts with a fairly fast hill with sharp turns to the left, then right, then left, then a less steep section with a couple of turns, and then a sharp right that sets you up for the biggest, baddest, steepest trail at the ranch. Fortunately, that steepest part is straight, which is why I was confident Brian could do it. It starts out steep, gets steeper yet, and then gradually the slope decreases until you transition into heading slightly uphill. And that's when the fun, fast switchbacks begin. It's the best 2k in Colorado. Brian did just great, but I oversold the really steep part. You know how a snowplow gets hard when you go too slow? Well, I messed up and had Brian put on the brakes a bit too much. My fault. Otherwise, his graduation run was flawless. He went on to beautifully negotiate the remaining downhill switchbacks, and rode the rails around some pretty sharp turns, leaning just enough without having to step out of the grooves. Brian passed the test with flying Fischer colors. Back to you, Speedster.

On the last day, we skied the Blue Ridge loop. Don says it's like backcountry skiing but with classic tracks. They don't always groom this part of the Nordic center because it is remote and climbs up to about 10,000 feet, which is the highest elevation I have ever skied. We were hoping to see wolves, coyotes, or moose on our wilderness journey, but only caught a glance of some coyote tracks on top of the classic tracks.

Don here: Brian is right. Blue Ridge Loop is a great experience that very few skiers enjoy because, well, it's tough. You ski up and up, and then up some more. Because of the small number of skiers willing to work that hard, the center doesn't always groom that trail. We were rewarded on this post-graduation day with freshly groomed tracks, blue sky, nary a breath of wind, and temperatures in the mid-20s. Getting to the top of Blue Ridge Loop requires substantial persistence, but another reason skiers avoid Blue Ridge Loop is that the ride back down can be terrifyingly fast if you don't have good brakes. It's not nearly as steep as are several other hills at SMR, but it is relentless, and curvy, and there are a couple places where you absolutely need to stay on the trail, particularly where the shelf road makes a turn. Brian's got good brakes; I knew he'd love it. He did. I did. Brian's graduation reward was fun and flawless. Back atcha, Brian.

I am so thankful that Don and Tim were able to be available to be my guides for eight straight days of skiing. I enjoyed every minute of my adventures, and cannot wait until next winter to go back to SMR with Don and Tim and all of my SFL friends!

PS. I am in search of a guide who might like to ski the 2023 Kortelopet event with me. Please let me know if you're interested.